Beach Reviews: Allihies, Beara
When standing on the coarse white sand of Ballydonegan beach in Allihies on a
glorious summer's day you could be forgiven for thinking you're in a different
country. It's true to an extent.
A solid two and
a half hour journey from the city centre, Allihies is one of the county's most
south westerly outposts on the tip of the Beara Peninsula and the perfect place
to find tranquillity after a hard week. It's not somewhere people from the eastern
half of the county would go for a daytrip but Beara is full of B&Bs and
to make it even easier there's a camp site less than a stone's throw from the
beach itself.
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Croatia?
Western Sardina? Nah biy. Pure Beara.
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You
might find the thick gritty sand a little odd, but its effect on the posterior
is still remarkably relaxing. Surprisingly, it is a convenient bi-product of
the nineteenth century nearby copper mine (now with it's own museum impressively
financed by local fundraising), perched on the hill to the north.
Thankfully, Allihies
is well beyond the city wacker buffer zone. Owenahincha is about as far as day-tripping
scobes and their high-pitched badly tattooed wans will venture, so you won't
be troubled by human irritants on this beach.
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The
same colour as the crayon you used to draw the sea with back in junior infants
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Sadly though, despite
its romantic isolation, brightly painted psychedelic tighíns, impeccable
cleanliness and the cute fadó fadó feel, the village does posses
a handful of home-grown "hardshaws" in multi-coloured wife-beaters
whose weekend rituals include parking their hooch-wagons outside pubs so they
can pump out deafening kiddie-trance music for all and sundry to bear, while
they guzzle bottles of cider and roar indiscernible nonsense at their friends
18 inches away.
The grazing cattle,
literally feet away on the other side of the road, take it all in their stride
but they've clearly had a lifetime to adapt. Beyond a 99 in the local shop we
recommend heading back towards Castletownbere for something more substantial
after visiting the coppermines.
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Allihies
village
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The good news is
that the village is a twisty half mile uphill from the beach so sun seekers
are spared the pounding bass and steely who-the-hell-are-you looks of the local
testosterone. Beara's geographical position makes it one of the first ports
of call for the north easterly bound gulf stream and the water is a stunning
Caribbean blue, luring any beach lusty Corkman who sees it to it's mesmerising
crystal clear interior.
When Holy God made
Beara, He didn't fit it out with beaches suitable for hurling and Ballydonegan
beach is no exception. In GAA terms the peninsula has imposed the equivalent
of sharia law on young men, with football the only acceptable religion - vitally
important for breeding quality ball players to deal with the green-and-gold
threat of you-know-who just over the county bounds to the north.
Sand: 10/10
(a uniquely sensual feel!)
Swimming: 9/10
Parking: 8/10
Puck around space: 3/10 (short passing game only)
Scobe factor: medium/high (but confined to the village)
Flies: none
99 Cones: Allihies village
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